Tutorial: Tribal Print Denim Shorts

Have you seen these denim cutoffs with tribal print panels added? They're all over Pinterest.

Free People

Free People Rodeo Shorts

Cute right!? Some have a panel in the front and also a contrasting strip on the back yoke. My sister asked me to make a pair for her out of some cast off jeans so I thought I'd take some photos and share. It was a pretty quick project, here's how: 

You Need: 

Shorts (hemmed or frayed)

small pieces of fabric (cotton, knit, poly, etc... just be sure that it can take a little heat)

small pieces of Pellon "Wonder Web" (this is great stuff, it's over by the interfacing)

matching thread, scissors, iron, denim needle, stitch ripper, etc...

The Steps: 

1) Start by using a stitch ripper to remove stitches from the bottom of the belt loops (I did all of them so that I could sew them back on with black thread instead of taupe, just a time saver :)

2) Use the wonder web to create a template for each of the fabric pieces. Cut them so that they fit perfectly within the area you want to cover with fabric. We will add some allowance for hems in the next step. (You can see here I started with two separate pieces in the back but that really wasn't necessary)

3) Lay the wonder web on your fabric of choice; using it as a template, cut around the pieces adding a 1/4 " hem allowance on all sides. 

4) Head to the ironing board and pin wonder web to the wrong side of the newly cut pattern pieces. Snip corners off diagonally to reduce bulk then begin folding the fabric around the wonder web and pressing it down with a hot iron. (See photos) Avoid touching the web with your iron or you'll have a sticky mess. 

Snip wherever necessary to manipulate the fabric around the "wonder web template." The center bottom of the yoke (below) needs a snip to keep the correct angle and make a row of snips around the curve of the pocket for the front panel. 

5) When you're finished pressing, pin the pieces to the shorts. Use lots of pins and be prepared to pull and tuck so that the pieces fit correctly. (WAIT UNTIL AFTER SEWING TO PRESS, that gives you the chance to shift the fabric around and avoid weird wrinkles.)

6) Sewing with matching thread, stitch as close to the edge of the fabric as possible, smoothing as you go and keeping the belt loops out of the way.

 When you apply the front panel, finagle your way inside the pocket so that you don't stitch it closed, then sew around the outside edges.

7) After you finish stitching, press the shorts, heating wonder web and fusing the fabric even more securely to the shorts.

8) Last step! Sew the belt loops back in place. Done! A trendy, easy, upcycle!

As soon as I get one, I'll add a picture of my sis modeling these! I would have tried them on myself...but...the effect (considering my 7 month pregnant belly) wouldn't have been exactly the same :).

By the way, this fabric is a $1/yd remnant from Hancocks. It feels like rayon but is probably some other kind of cotton/poly blend because it ironed just fine. I think the light weight helped keep these shorts from feeling too bulky. 

"Tie-in'-It-Up" Tee

Back in April a good college friend, whom I don't get to see nearly often enough :), emailed and asked me to make a t-shirt with an appliqué tie on the front for her little man's first birthday party. I have seen these everywhere...bibs with ties, tee's and onesies with ties, you name it...but I've never made one myself. So I was excited to do it. I found an inexpensive 18-24 month tee at Old Navy, it had a chest pocket but I removed that before pre-washing and drying. You can't even see where it was.

This is a quick and easy project!

Here's what you need: 
Tee, onesie, bib, etc...
small piece of cotton fabric (woven or knit is fine, just make sure it's washable)
lightweight and medium weight fusible interfacing
chalk or disappearing ink pen
pins, thread, sewing machine, scissors

1) First decide on the size and shape of your tie. This is personal preference. Fatter and shorter makes it look more "cartoonish," my friend specifically requested a more narrow, realistic tie. Practice on tissue paper until you get what you want, keep it proportional to the garment you are working with. Also, be sure that when you cut it out, that the left and right sides are symmetrical.

2) Back the tie with lightweight fusible interfacing and press a strip of medium weight inside the shirt. Position the tie and pin securely. Set your machine to a dense, wide zig-zag stitch (I used 0.8 density and between 2.8 and 3.0 width) and turn the thread tension down a bit (I used 3). See my "Tips and Tricks to Applique." Careful not to stretch the tee as you sew, sew the tie to the shirt.

3) Peel away and trim off as much of the medium weight interfacing as possible from the inside of the shirt (I find it makes the shirt feel a bit stiff if left on). Press with a little steam if you have any funny wrinkles. That's it! Enjoy!

Even better when it's adorning an adorable chunk of baby boy! Happy birthday little guy!

Applique

I've been playing around with applique a lot lately. Experimenting with new techniques, trying to figure out the best stitch length and density, best iron on interfacing, using fusible fleece, mixing fabrics and combining applique with hand embroidery.

I like the way that applique can elevate a simple t-shirt, blanket, stuffed animal, or pair of overalls to something really special.

Knee pad patches, I'm in love with these for fall and winter! I backed them with fusible fleece.

Here are a couple of things that I've found:

1) Simple shapes are the best. Lines, gradual curves (tiny circles can be on the tricky side)...Simple also tends to come out cleaner and more modern looking. It's amazingly easy to make your own designs and templates. There are great ideas out there on the web and you can adapt them to your own taste. Keep a disappearing marker handy so you can sketch then look at your proportions and adjust!

2) To "apply appliques," I use a zig-zag stitch (I have a Pfaff Expression 2.0) set on about 2.8 stitch length and 0.8 or 1.0 stitch density (0.8 if I'm using a fabric that frays really easily like seersucker or on clothing that will be washed and dried very often , 1.0 is fine for less fussy fabrics or purely decorative items. I have also found that turning my thread tension down to around 3 really helps avoid wrinkles. I'm sure this varies from machine to machine. I have also seen other sewists suggest turning down your presser foot pressure, I haven't done this but it makes a lot of sense. Just depends on the machine, practice on some scrap fabric first!


3) Use fusible interfacing to back each piece of your applique. I generally use a medium weight. This not only keeps your fabric from fraying as you stitch, but helps it to survive the long haul or the laundry! Sometimes I use a fabric gluestick to secure my applique to the background fabric before I start stitching, it's completely water soluble but really helps keep things in place!



4) It's really important that the background fabric does not stretch as you stitch on your applique and maneuver around any curves. Definitely use a stabilizer (either tear away--although be careful using this on things like corduroy because the fibers can stick to it and pull through the fabric...I have done this...ugh...) or a medium to heavy weight fusible interfacing--I usually snip off the excess after I'm done so the garment doesn't feel too stiff.  I find that as I'm maneuvering the layers of fabric through my machine, it's best if I keep my hands flat on top of the applique and be sure that I can always feel that piece of stabilizer behind my background fabric, never tugging just guiding and letting the feed dog do its work! This is especially important on fabrics like jersey.

This square is backed with fusible fleece instead of interfacing. It gave the applique some dimension after I "quilted" the squares in the middle. I used a 1.0 stitch density on this one, but I probably should have done 0.8 so that those stray threads didn't find their way through.

The tee below is done with a 0.8 stitch density, I'm happier with the results.

Just a couple more examples:

I'm loving the woodland animals these days. I'll have a tutorial coming up using these appliqued squares, but I can't tell you what they are yet!