Easy Tunic Style Top Tutorial

I cannot stand to wear maternity clothes that look like all I've done is draped a tent over myself, you'd be surprised how many things look like this, especially dresses. I need some summery tops so I decided to create a simple pattern and make one. I used this beautiful, sheer, navy and white polka dot cotton/poly knit that I picked up on the Hancock's discount table several months ago ($1/yd, score!!)

Here's a snapshot of me wearing my version (without the belt, which I'm adding in this tutorial). It's cropped like that because I entered it in Made by Rae's Spring Top Week competition.




I love how it turned out, it's super easy and comfy and there are so many ways you can vary or alter the pattern to fit your body and your style.

Here's what you need: 
1) 1-2 Yards of fabric (I used something with a little stretch to accomodate the baby bump, but it would also be really pretty in a silky fabric or nice cotton)

2) Matching thread

3) measuring tape, scissors, sewing machine, etc...

How to:
1) First cut 1 rectangle:
    width=across shoulders from sleeve to sleeve plus hem
              allowance
    length=shoulder to bottom of shirt plus hem (cut on fold)

The shape of this shirt is basically a rectangle, folded in half with an opening for your head (then sewn up on the sides of course). Hold your arms straight out to your sides (like you are about to do arm circles, remember elementary school PE?) and measure from elbow to elbow across your shoulders and upper arms. If you want shorter sleeves like mine, just measure in the same way but starting and stopping where you want the sleeves to hit. Take this measurement and add 2 inches. For the length, measure from your shoulder to just below your hip (or desired length) and add 1 inch (we're going to cut on the fold so this measurement is actually half the total length of your rectangle). I did this measurement on my front so I could add in a little bust and belly room.

(At this point, I went to the ironing board and pressed all edges under 1/2" then another 1/2" and hemmed the rectangle all the way around. I didn't do anything fancy for the corners.)

2) Now we are going to cut out the neckline hole and make bias tape to finish the edge. Grab a shirt to use as a guide. I like a v-neck, but boat neck or round neck or whatever would also look good.

Start with the gentle curve of the back neckline, cut through both layers, then adjust the front until you have what you want.

Next, cut a strip of fabric (about 1 3/4" wide, I was using a 1" bias tape maker) long enough to line the edge of the neck opening. I did not cut my strip on the bias, it's up to you. Make your bias tape, then start pinning it in place, sandwiching it around the raw neck edge. I sewed the strip together at the center of the 'V' with a straight seam so I could hide it. Now, sew the bias tape to the shirt.

To form a nice 'V', pinch the bias tape with right sides together and sew along the crease, creating a little 'wedge.'

Beautiful!!

3) Now for the fit! Stand in front of a mirror (bring some pins!), put the shirt over your head and be sure the bottom edges match up perfectly (center the fold at the top of your shoulder). Matching side seams as you go, start at a comfortable spot under your arm and pin down the sides in a straight line. Pin close enough to your body to give you a flattering fit but with enough slack to get the top on and off easily. Use another pin to mark where you want the belt to go--it could be around your ribs if you're preggers or at the natural waist if you aren't. You can see in the picture below the outside line of pins is going to become my side seam and the inside yellow pin is where I want the belt.

Before you start sewing, measure to be sure left and right seams are in the same position and that the side edges are perfectly matched, then just sew in a straight line from the underarm to the hem on the right side of shirt-forward and backstitching securely. Repeat on the other side. Try on your shirt before going any further, make adjustments if needed and double check your belt position (measure and mark belt position on each side, right on the side seam).

4) For the belt, we're going to make buttonholes right on the side seams, that way the belt can be cinched in around your middle but leave the side ruffles 'ruffly.' Mine are 1 1/4" long, (about 25 mm on my machine). I did not reinforce the fabric with interfacing, if you use a really delicate fabric, make the holes just inside the side seam and use a small piece of interfacing (it will be completely hidden that way).

5) This is the last step! The Belt!! Cut a strip of fabric: Length= your waist (x2) and Width=3 1/2" Take the strip to the ironing board. Press the short ends under 1/2" and press one long edge under 1/2". Next fold the raw edge over about 1" and press, then match long pressed edges and press again. Now just sew along the ends and down the long, open side.  (ignore my horribly stained ironing board cover, clearly that should be my next project! :)

 That's it! Tie in the back or on the side, or wear without a belt. The buttonholes don't show at all if you do them in a matching color. This top was so easy, it was an hour project at most. I love something you can completely finish during one nap time...or one episode of Sesame Street. I will be making this again!

If you make this, I'd love to see comments or pictures (add them to the "You Sewed!" Flickr pool, click the tab at the top right of my homepage).

Little Man Letterman Sweater Tutorial

I like cardigans and sweaters for boys that have something different or unique about them. One glance through the girls section at Target yields a cartful of fun clothes, but for the boys it's all fleece zip-ups, hoodies, and sweatshirts. We have our share of those, some very cute! Maybe it's because college basketball season is in full swing,  but vintagey looking sportswear with all of its stripes and letters and embroidery has been on my mind!

So I picked up an X-Large, men's t-shirt for $4.99, a little piece of gray, ribbed knit from Hancocks, and raided my button bag and ribbon scrap box to make this:

Here's how!

Create Pattern Pieces:

Grab a loose fitting long sleeved t-shirt that fits your little cutie, a fabric marker, scissors and the men's t-shirt (or similar knit fabric). Use the child's shirt as a template and trace a back and a front piece giving a little extra width if need be so that the cardigan won't be too snug. I positioned these front and back pieces so that I could use the existing t-shirt hem as the bottom of my cardigan (saved a little time). Trace the front piece just like the t-shirt, we will make it into two pieces in the next step. Now trace two sleeves but don't taper them to the wrist! You want to cut them straight from the underarm to the cuff. Cut out your four pieces. (See rough sketch of pattern pieces below)

Front Opening:

Take the front piece and fold it in half so that the fold is along what will become the front opening. Take your marker and trace a curve from the shoulder to about the middle of the front (in a very gradual, gentle 'v'). Cut along this line and then straight up the fold from the bottom. Now you will have a left and right front piece with a "v" neck. Here are the basic shapes you should have once you're done cutting.

Attach front to back and add sleeves:

With right sides together stitch front and back pieces together at the shoulders. Next, take a sleeve and match the shoulder seam to the top center of the sleeve, pin and sew. Repeat for the other side. (You should have open sides and open sleeves).

Front Edge and Collar:

For the collar and front edging, cut a 5 1/2 to 6 inch wide strip of ribbed knit (with the grain) long enough to line the front opening, go around the neckline then back down the front plus a little extra for seam allowance on each bottom end. Fold the strip in half with right sides together and sew across each bottom end. Now turn right sides out (this will leave you with clean, finished bottom edges).

Now pin the doubled strip of ribbed knit to the right side of the cardigan opening-matching raw edges. Sew all the way around using a stretch stitch or zig-zag stitch set on 0 stitch width, finish seam using serger or zig-zag.

 

Now flip the ribbed knit "open" and topstitch (still using a stretch stitch) all the way around the seam of cardigan and ribbed knit. This helps it stay put, cleans up the seam inside and gives a more professional finish.

Here's the inside.

Sleeve Stripes:

For the sleeve stripes, you could use single fold bias tape or strips of knit fabric, I used twill tape. The red is poly (but it feels and looks like cotton) and the gray is cotton that used to be handles on an Anthropologie bag (Ha! That's a lesson in not throwing away anything textile related :)!

Lay the sleeve flat, position the trim in rows, straight across the sleeve and pin in place. Raw ends are fine, they will be sewn into the seam when you stitch the sleeves closed. Sew the trim in place, stitching along each edge.

To Close up the Sides and Sleeves:

Turn the cardigan right sides together, and pin, matching raw edges, all the way from the bottom edge to the armpit then down the sleeve to wrist opening. Sew together using a stretch stitch, finish raw edges and repeat this process for the other side.

Cuffs:

For the cuffs, cut two rectangles of ribbed knit 4 inches wide and as long as the circumference of your child's wrist plus 1/2 inch. Ribbed knit is stretchy in all directions, but most stretchy against the grain. The ribs should be perpendicular to the long side of your cuff so that they are nice and stretchy (check out the photos just to double check).

Fold the cuff in half with right sides together and sew along short sides of the rectangle, press seam open.  Turn cuff right side out and fold double so that the two long, raw edges are together and the seam is hidden inside. Now put cuff around sleeve (right sides together) matching raw edges and seams, pin in place. You will need to stretch the cuff open as you pin so that the sleeve is evenly spaced, now stitch the sleeve and cuff together (important to use a stretch stitch here) stretching cuff open as you sew. Trim raw edges if needed and finish seam with serger or zig-zag. Repeat for the other cuff.

 It will look a little wonky on the inside, but awesome and professional when you turn it to the right side!

Buttons and Buttonholes:
Last step! Starting just under the "v," mark button and buttonhole placement on the ribbed knit edge. I used 3 buttons, you could do less or more depending on the cardigan size. I did not reinforce the buttonholes with interfacing, that wouldn't be a bad idea, but the double layer of knit holds its shape pretty well.

I LOVE how it turned out. It's comfy and wearable and lightweight enough for a NOLA winter. Imagine how stinkin' cute this would be in a newborn size! Good thing I've got some friends having baby boys soon!

Go Team!!  C---A---T---S!  CATS, CATS, CATS!!

I'm toying with the idea of adding a letter P, I went so far as to cut it out of felt and back it with interfacing. The next step was going to be adding french knots all over, really close together to give it that old-fashioned, "carpeted" letter look, but I'm not sure. I don't want this to look overly 'costumey.' It is, however, an option and could be super cute!

P.S. If you sew up one of these, I would love to know how it goes! Leave comments or add some pictures to my Flickr group "You Sewed" and maybe be featured on my blog. Just click the Flickr tab under the header!

The Cozy Chloe Hat Pattern

            Last week I posted about the hat I made for my sister Chloe for Christmas! Well, I wrote a pattern for it! It's my first crochet pattern, I would love for people to try it and give me feedback (positive or constructively critical :). Thanks!! Click the collage below for the free downloadable PDF!